Fast Fashion in the World

Sustainability. Fast fashion. All seemingly pretentious, niche ideas that have absolutely nothing to do with us. Or so it seems. While sustainability is on the rise, fast fashion is, paradoxically, becoming more problematic as well. But before I go on, let’s set the context.

Simply put, fast fashion is defined as cheap, trendy clothing that is mass produced at breakneck speeds to meet consumer demand. This phenomenon took the world by storm, sensationalising after the Rana Plaza disaster in Dhaka, Bangladesh. It was a truly tragic disaster that shook the fashion industry, with 1100 deaths and at least 2000 injuries, caused by the collapse of the building in May 2013. Even though this spurred a rising consumer interest in ethical fashion, sentiments among companies remained primarily unchanged.

One distinct characteristic of fast fashion is its linear supply chain: Take → Make → Throw. Companies prioritise maximising efficiency, and they do this through mass producing massive volumes of clothing at ridiculously low costs, maximising their profits. Consumers, on the other hand, prioritise cheaper and diverse clothes, holding onto an incredibly appealing mindset that only feeds fast fashion companies. Of course, in an ideal world, this would be fine. But in reality, this is extremely harmful because of 2 main outcomes: environmental impacts and labour exploitation.

Environmental impacts

There is no doubt that fast fashion is a resource-consuming process. However, to what extent is this justified, and acceptable? Over the last 10 years, wastage and pollution has exponentially increased due to the high rates of clothes production, which has doubled since 2000. According to a study conducted by McKinsey and Company, it is estimated that by 2030, the fashion industry will consume resources equivalent to 2 earths, with the demand for clothing expected to increase by at least 63%. How appalling.

At the production level, fast fashion is the world’s second largest consumer of the world’s water supply. It takes 2700 litres of water to produce 1 cotton shirt, and 9000 litres of water for 1 pair of jeans. Do you know what this looks like? An average person’s drinking needs for at least 5 years. If this rate is maintained, it will surpass the world’s water supply by 40% by 2030. Fun. Additionally, 35% of plastic pollution in water bodies is attributed to the laundering of polyester, which releases microplastics. At least 500 000 tonnes of microplastics are released into the ocean each year, equivalent to about 50 billion plastic bottles. Moreover, the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of all the carbon emissions in the world, releasing significant amounts of toxic chemicals and greenhouse gases when incinerated.

At the disposal level, fast fashion has resulted in clothes being devalued, as people are quick to throw away clothes that they no longer find trendy and buy fast fashion garments. Hence, this has normalised a culture of rapid buying-and-throwing, resulting in disproportionate textile wastage that piles up in landfills and takes tens of decades to decompose. In fact, 1 garbage truck worth of clothes (2625 kg) is burnt or sent to landfills every second, enough to fill 1.5 empire state buildings. Of the 85% of textiles sent to landfills, less than 1% of used clothing is recycled into new garments.

One would think that it can’t possibly get worse. But I assure you, it does.

Labour exploitation

Another essential aspect of fast fashion is the welfare and condition of the workers. Due to the rapid production and lack of transparency, labour exploitation exists. Bluntly put, people are suffering. Terribly. They are still suffering, and yet, there is a substantial lack of progress. This arose as a result of a fundamental flaw with the production of fast fashion.

The production of fast fashion is reliant on the Global Production Network, where several companies are involved in a singular production process. Usually, the established companies outsource the manufacturing process to developing countries (suppliers) as there is greater manpower and it costs less. But, here is where the problem lies. These suppliers are not officially affiliated with these brands, hence they are not legally obliged to ensure decent working conditions in these developing countries. Consequently, this has led to inadequate labour laws. Even if there are labour laws, they are not properly enforced, for rampant corruption and complicity hinders proper enforcement.

Hence, child labour is a problem. At least 170 million children are affected, where they work 14-16 hours a day, 7 days a week. In fact, the International Labour Organisation estimates a rise in child labour despire a suggested 30% decrease from 2000 to 2012. This is incredibly problematic as these children are deprived of an education, with 11% of child labourers unable to pursue an education. They are hence, unable to upskill themselves and remain trapped in the poverty cycle, living in a constant hell. Kids as young as 12 are forced to work like slaves, in dangerous working conditions with harsh chemicals and heavy machinary. Their dreams are dashed, the life ahead of them ruined, simply because some company wanted money. How utterly disgusting and morally reprehensible.

Gender-based violence is another issue as well. Even though the fashion industry is predominantly feminist, with 80% of garment workers being women, management positions are still male-dominated. What does this mean? A systemic, hierarchical power imbalance that places women at abject disadvantage, with absolutely no means to save themselves. If they stand up and speak out, they are terminated. So, without any other option, they silently tolerate the unfair wages and abuse. Statistically, 0% of Bangladeshi workers and 1% of Vietnamese workers earn a living wage. 75% of workers are verbally abused, and at least 50% are physically abused.

Because of cultural norms, strict anti-union policies and the tragic belief that there is no option, women and children alike remain entrapped in the cycle, becoming resigned to their fates -- unreasonable and harsh working conditions where they are forced overtime, without meal or toilet breaks.

It may seem like the world is a horrible place, with horrible people and horrible things. You might have lost hope, that there is no hope. That’s not entirely true. Companies and individuals alike are stepping up to take action and be more sustainable in fashion. For example, Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), which aims to eliminate child labour and slavery by 2025, has propelled many humanitarian efforts that reduced child labour by approximately 30%. The feminism movement is on the ever rise, providing more protection for these women and children. Companies are also changing their production model to be less wasteful and more ethical. There is hope.

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Written by Shobhana